Red River Gorge Climbing Guide: Recommended Sport Climbing Routes

Beginner-Friendly Routes (5.6 - 5.9)

For climbers new to the sport or those looking to ease into the Red’s unique rock features, here are some excellent beginner routes that focus on fun moves and steady challenges.

• 5.6 - Eureka (Global Village): Situated in the scenic Global Village area, Eureka is known for its straightforward moves and confidence-building holds. Perfect for first-time climbers!
• 5.7 - The Offering (Bruise Brothers): This route offers some fun moves and slight overhang that test balance and body positioning. Located at Bruise Brothers, The Offering lets climbers enjoy the vibrant atmosphere of this popular crag.
• 5.8 - Nobody Cares (Corner Pocket): This tall pitch starts off with some technical slab moves down low leading to a never ending series of flat edges and perfectly placed feet. Twelve comfortably spaced bolts of climbing eventually lead to one last little surprise before the anchors. 
• 5.9 - Little Wing (Secret Garden): Little Wing is an aesthetically pleasing route that has just the right amount of technicality to give new climbers a bit of a challenge without being overwhelming. 

Intermediate Routes (5.10a - 5.10d)

The Red’s 5.10 range offers a thrilling variety of routes that help climbers sharpen their skills and get a taste of the area’s unique climbing features.

• 5.10a - To Defy the Laws of Tradition (Left Flank): You can not miss the first bolted line of the Red River Gorge, KY! This route delivers excellent practice in balance and footwork. Climbers enjoy a mix of vertical and pumpy climbing with interesting holds.
• 5.10b - A Brief History of Climb (The Gallery): An iconic 5.10b, this stand-out line at the crag challenges climbers with a powerful opening technical move followed by an  eye-catching plated overhang with great movement.
• 5.10c - Pre-emptive Strike (The Hideout): After pulling through some tricky moves down low, climbers will be rewarded with varied climbing from slabby to overhung, jugs to slopers, and everything in between along this long and engaging pitch.
• 5.10d - Holy Grail (Camelot): The king line of Camelot. Cruise up some engaging jugs to the first anchor for a fun 5.9 or rest up then fire into the overhanging pockets above for a few more bolts to the top of the climb to get full value.

Advanced Routes (5.11a - 5.11d)

The Red boasts an exciting catalog of challenging endeavors in the 5.11 range. Here, climbers will discover a logical progression of endurance, power, and technique as these routes showcase more of the Red’s signature steepness.

• 5.11a - Air Ride Equipped (The Solarium): Air Ride Equipped is a classic for those seeking airy, dynamic moves. Expect steep rock and some pumpy sections, but the thrill of the climb makes it all worth it! Don’t miss all the rests along the way.
• 5.11b - King Me (Eastern Sky Bridge): Long thought of as the test piece for the grade in the Red, this classic will equally test technique and endurance with engaging movement on sculpted holds at a consistent steepness. King Me is known for its beautiful view after an adventurous upper section!
• 5.11c - The Fury (Bibliothek): A Red River Gorge endurance test piece for the grade! Try not to get too enraged as you watch your hands open on some of the biggest holds you've ever fallen off of as you make your way up this consistently overhung, never-ending jug ladder.
• 5.11d - Buddha Hole (Solar Collector): A must do for those who love hueco rests! This challenging route starts off with some crimps and slopers to gain the first sloping hueco. Take a moment to recenter yourself before exiting the hueco and encountering the crux. Another rest in the Buddha Hole hueco will let you recover enough energy to attain enlightenment on the headwall above.

Expert Routes (5.12a - 5.12d)

Now this is where the Red truly begins to shine! These epic routes take everything wonderful about the climbing here to truly exciting and demanding heights. Power, endurance, and on-route resting skills are essential here.

• 5.12a - Twinkie (Phantasia): With a first ascent team of Porter Jarrard and Chris Snyder, it is no wonder that this classic climb is still considered a benchmark for the grade over 30 years after it was first climbed. A well rounded set of climbing skills is required to tackle this stellar climb which starts off on a thin technical slab before launching into some of the steepest and juggiest climbing around.
• 5.12b - Last Rites (The Infirmary): Awe-inspiring and challenging, Last Rites offers more steep goodness to a wickedly thin and powerful crux. Tackling the proudest and most aesthetic line in the beautiful Infirmary amphitheater, it’s a must-do for climbers looking to hone their mastery over the pump.
• 5.12c - Orange Juice (Funk Rock City): Often considered among the very best lines in the Red, Orange Juice climbs a picturesque orange streak at the expansive Funk Rock City crag. Long, dynamic reaches between sculpted pockets and edges provide some of the most engaging boulder problems climbers will ever encounter on a sport route.
• 5.12d - Jesus Wept (The Sanctuary): Bring the power, endurance, and accuracy to make it up this beautiful and engaging climb. Fight through two boulder problems at bolts 2 and 4 then try to recover enough gas to keep it together through the crux, utilizing some of the best 1, 2, and 3 finger pockets the Red has to offer.

Elite Routes (5.13a and Above)

For elite climbers, the Red has numerous iconic 5.13 and 5.14 routes that test the absolute limits of strength and endurance. These climbs are a true proving ground for those ready to push themselves to the max.

• 5.13a - Table of Colors (Left Flank): How could we not mention the very first 5.13 established in the Red? This storied classic gets its name from the gorgeous multicolored panel of RRG sandstone that it travels. Be prepared for delicate movement and hard crimp pulling on some of the coolest rock around! 
• 5.13b - Golden Boy (Gold Coast): Another appropriately named line, Golden Boy ascends the most distinct line of pockets on the beautifully unmistakable Gold Coast crag. Gaining these alluring pockets will demand some tryhard on the slopey crimps characteristic of the wall. Conquer a crux or two up high to clip the chains on this visually stunning route.
• 5.13c - Kaleidoscope (Drive-by Crag): Beloved by many as the king line of the Drive-by Crag, Kaleidoscope takes on a striking steep arete that is sure to capture everyone’s gaze. Negotiating this unbelievable feature will require equal parts mental and physical fortitude as climbers embark on a unique, exposed journey of steep and powerful climbing.
• 5.13d - Ultra-perm (Bob Marley): Notorious for its relentless crimps and neck-bending steep terrain, Ultra-perm is not for the faint-hearted. It’s among the most prized climbs east of the Mississippi, drawing the best of the best from around the world.
• 5.14a - Omaha Beach (Madness Cave): No list is complete without mentioning the one and only Madness Cave at none other than the world famous Motherlode. A legendary 5.14, Omaha Beach climbs the steepest line of the cave to the highest point of the cliff. It is revered as the ultimate, quintessential route of the RRG style; long, steep, and ridiculously pumpy. Tie in, chalk up, and storm the beach!

Conclusion

The Red continues to captivate climbers year after year, offering unparalleled experiences that will stay with you for a lifetime. Whether you’re chasing your first lead or pushing for your hardest send, let this guide be your source for the diverse and memorable routes the Red River Gorge has to offer. Ready to take on the challenge? Pack up your gear, plan your trip, and join us at the iconic crags of the Gorge. See you on the cliffs—Happy Climbing!